1999 NISSAN SENTRA ALTERNATOR WIRING DIAGRAM


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B14 1995 - 1999 Nissan Sentra Alternator Replacement - YouTube
A simple guide to replace the alternator on a B14 95-99 Nissan Sentra.Author: IvanViews: 40KVideo Duration: 5 min
I have a 1999 Nissan Sentra 1.6. The alternator went out
I have a 1999 Nissan.. I have a 1999 Nissan Sentra 1.6. The alternator went out and it took out the i will do this-if you can read a wiring diagram,Great-it makes things simpler. I need to to locate and pull fusible link F, a 25 amp link, in the underhood fuse block by the batteryk each pin in the fuse block for power with the test light connected to battery negative, and probing the fuseblock pins. One should have power. I 'm sorry-I hit the wrong button for that last info request. You shouldn't have to accept until you are satisfied with my answer. Did you get my last?No problem.Not necessarily. I don't give up. We'll get to the problem together. Please try to follow my suggestions and instructions as closely as you can. Although it may not seem like it at the time, there is a reason for everything I have you do. Example-the windows work off of a circuit breaker(self-resetting fuse) that gets its power from the same place the door lock circuits do. So the question concerning then door lock operation dictated which diagnostic path we need to pursue.. Remember this also-I agreed to help you for the monies you deposited, and I thank you. But having professional technician doing this in a shop-no comparision. Within 20 minutes I myself could have identified the problem, at a cost the customer of a minimumof $80. Please don't get me wrong-I'm not asking for more money. But understand the time and effort it takes me to talk you to a diagnostic conclusion, and if I've saved you a chunk of change.. Anyway-I'm here to get to the root of the problem, not just answer your question, which would have been "check fuses XYZ and fusible links 1,2,and 3." I don't work like that. If you have any questions concerning a component or test I want you to perform , ask it. Neither of us will be satisfied if you hold back. There is no "wrong" or "Stupid" question, OK? The main thing is let's get the thing fixed. Figure out what it's worth to you later.As I said-one system at a time. The power windows get their power from fusible link F-a 25 amp link-which looks like a big fuse, usually. If it has a small clear cover on it, carefully pry that cover off and make sure there is power into and out of the fusible link. That is step one.Good deal. Now check fuse #7 in the underdash fuse box for power in and out with the ignition key in the run position.I cannot get a diagram to come up thst I can send to you. In one corner are 4 spare fuses. In the opposite corner, there is, starting with fuse 1, a 15 amp fuse . The next row has a 15 amp fuse 2, the next row has a 20 amp fuse 3, fuse 4 at the end of row 4 is also a 20 amp, and the last row has a 20 amp fuse 5ting over under #1, is fuse 6 is a 7.5, then under the 15 amp fuse 2 is fuse 7, a 7.5 amp fuse. These are in the underDASH fuse block. There are 5 rows of fuses, with the last 2 rows only having 4 fuses each. Can you verify that information? Fuse 7(second row of 7 fuses, and the second fuse-7.5 amps, should have power with the key on, engine off.Left of the under dash fuse block is the power window circuit breaker. Do you know what that looks like?I'm attempting to attach a picture that shows its approximate location. Let me know when you find it, and test it for power on the white wire. It has a white wire going to it, and a white wire with a blue tracer white wire should have battery power to it, key position doesn't matter.Yes I do, in fact. You need to identify the window relay. It is identified in the drawing I included in the post about 2 up from here. It has a Green wire going to it that should have power when the key is i n RUN. It has a white wire with a blue stripe that should have power all the time regardless of key position. The Blue wire with the white stripe should have power with the key in RUN, but not with the key OFF. And lastly, the black wire should have a good ground all the time. If those readings check out, then the the relay may have a problem with it. Do those tests and let me know.If all the powers and grounds are there, then we need to check the door switch. Remove teh switch and bezel from the door, and with it hooked up, check for power on teh see if there's power at the blue wire with the white stripe, key in RUN, and for a good ground at the black wire.ONE system at a time. If there is power on the blue with white, and ground on the black, then when triggering the left front power window down, see if the ground on the solid blue wire out of the switch changes to power.I'm researching the wiper system schematic as we speak. Does your have intermitient wipers?
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